A step from where Julius Caesar was killed, in via delle Botteghe Oscure, there is the Balbi Crypt a site that has been deeply investigated by a group of passionate and talented archaeologists between 1980s and 1990s. 

Balbi Crypt was a colonnade connected to the smallest theater of Rome built by Lucius Cornelius Balbo in 13 B.C.
The theater now lies under the Mattei Palaces; the area of the Crypt instead was wisely purchased by the Italian State and revealed the rich and changing life of the city of Rome through a remarkable amount of marbles and artifacts from different centuries. 

​A big portion of the imposing perimetric wall of the Crypt is still standing, with its big travertine blocks and its half columns fallen after the earthquake 847 AD patiently recomposed piece by piece.

Under the IV century floor there are other levels to discover: the ancient foundation wall of the nearby Porticus Minucia, an office used in ancient times for the free distribution of wheat to the Romans. ​Still today Romans are questioned: 'Are you a Roman from Rome?'.
Few knows that this comes from the ancient right of the Romans born within the city walls of free distribution of wheat.

In the Middle Ages, leaning on the external wall of the Crypt, the few citizens survived to the barbarian invasions started to build huts, then as the level of life was improving, they were replaced by houses and palaces whose sewage system can be still seen. In the meanwhile the building which once connected the Crypt to the Porticus Minucia was decaying and a street called via delle Botteghe Oscure (the street of dark shops) took its place.

The most exciting part of the Crypt is the Exedra. Liberated from the above modern houses, the Exedra was known theoretically by the specialists through the Forma Urbis, a huge ancient marble map of Rome built at the time of Septimius Severus preserved only in few parts. One of this part is showing exactly this semicircular part of the crypt. 

The Exedra was transformed by Hadrian in a luxury public toilet which could comfortably house 40 people, then after the fall of the Roman Empire the area was filled by the 'Calcare', kilns to transform the ancient statues into cement for the new constructions. In this area, the archaeologists found 2 bodies buried in the ancient toilet system, as the population could not leave the city during sieges, and the remains of a donkey killed during an earthquake by the sudden falling of the roof.

The Exedra was later connected with a monastery named Church of Santa Maria Domine Rosae and partly transformed into a praefurnium (oven) to heat the air and create a steam room to restore the tired pilgrims and the priests hosted in the monastery. The Balneum (private bath) is dating XI century but it is based on the bath system of the Ancient Romans.
​​The Church was later enlarged and transformed by the Jesuits in an Institution to save the 'Miserable Virgins' from prostitution. 

​Behind the Exedra, outside the crypt, a very well preserved ancient street divides some insulae (apartment blocks) transformed in the IV century into a domus (rich house) and after the fall of the Roman Empire, into a fullonica, a shop to dye color in the fabrics. The place did not have a good smell at the time, as to fix the colors they used urine.
On display in the above museum, there is an incredible amount of materials which prove the changes of this strategical point of Rome: pottery, jewelry, working instruments as well as amazing graphic reconstructions.

​​A less known site which helps to drag the Middle Ages out from the Darkness.

The Villa dei Quintili and the nearby ruins of the Roman Aqueducts are clearly visible to any traveler landing in Ciampino Airport and driving on the Appia Nuova (the New Appian Way) to reach the city center of Rome.

Since it was opened to the public the only access to the villa was from this modern road but the Italian State has recently purchased a new portion of terrain and it is finally possible to enter the Villa from the Ancient Appian Way, while strolling or biking on this peaceful road. The position in the heart of the regional park of the Appian Way makes this villa a little oasis just off the city walls.
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​The villa has a stadium, well preserved baths, a large ninfeum (fountain), residential areas which well show the comfortable life of the emperors and their entourage.

Moreover there is a tiny high tech museum which preserves part of the archaeological funds of the Villa.

To fully appreciate the Appian Way, I would recommend to start from the Aurelian Walls with the visit of the Museum of the Ancient Walls, to end up at Villa dei Quintili. You will need a full day, to enjoy this part of Rome hiring a bicycle or by foot. ​

Castel Sant'Angelo was first built as a tomb by the Emperor Hadrian and slowly transformed into a fortress, where the Popes passed long periods during sieges.
Its name derives from the Angel Michael which appeared at the top of the Castle to annuounce the end of a terrible plaugue at the time of Pope Gregory the Great.

The imposing structure can be seen fully from the end of St. Angel Bridge decorated by the angels of Gianlorenzo Bernini and despite its stern appearence it hides beautiful treasures and fine decorated interiors.

It was also a jail where famous prisoners were detained: Giordano Bruno the dominican priest burnt for heresy in the middle of Campo de Fiori square; Beatrice Cenci, a noblewoman beheaded for the murder of her abusive and violent father; Benvenuto Cellini, the famous goldsmith which dared replacing with fakes, some of the precious stones of the papal tiara; Cagliostro, the famous alchemist, mason and healer passed here 16 months in a luxury prison now called Cagliostra. It was portrayed as a jail in the famous Dan Brown's best seller, Angels and Demons.

The Pauline Hall is the fanciest part of the castle with the nearby Papal Bedroom and Throne Chamber decorated with the mithological stories of Perseus and Love and Psyche and connected with the smallest and cutest spa in the world, the stufetta.

Along the walls of the hall built by Paul III, Perin del Vaga, a pupil of Raphael, painted the enterprises of Alexander the Great; odd animals and servants carrying fruits popping up from fake doors.

If you are searching for a beautiful museum to visit on Monday morning, when all the others are closed to the public, I would recommend Villa Farnesina.

The villa was built in 1506-1520 by Agostino Chigi a rich bank man from Siena which financed many popes. Being so close to the Papacy, he could choose the most important painter of its time, Raphael, to decorate his new residence, as he  was working in the Vatican Papal Apartments, the Raphael's Rooms.

The result were the stories of Love and Psyche and the amazing Galatea.

The choice of these mythological stories is not random but it depends on the biography of the commissioner, Agostino Chigi. 

The 'Galatea' is an allegory of the aristocratic Margherita Gonzaga which didn't accept the advances of Agostino, which was not noble.
Therefore in Raphael's painting, Galatea, symbolizing Margherita, is escaping far from the ugly giant Polyphemus, painted by Sebastiano del Piombo, which depicts Agostino. Anyway the bank-man didn't lose too much time with the spoiled Margherita and found the love of his life in Venice.

In the main loggia overlooking the gardens, the paintings about 'Love and Psyche' are representing the love and wedding between the bank-man and a poor young Venetian lady, Francesca. 

Other famous masters worked in the villa, the Venetian Sebastiano del Piombo and the Sienese Baldassare Peruzzi which was also the architect of the villa, and painted a gorgeous ceiling representing the fortunate day of the birth of Agostino Chigi through astrological figures and Sodoma which decorated Agostino and Francesca's bedroom.

We should thank the Papal visceral love for their family if we can enjoy so many art collections in Rome, as the Borghese Gallery. Nepotism, a word that every Roman knows well, used for the Popes which gave power and offices to their nephews, 'nepoti', lacking marriage and children, at least legitimate ones.

Unfortunately most visitors find out too late that the Borghese Gallery needs advance reservation and miss this marvelous treasure of Rome.