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The Free and Easy Museum of the Walls

4/15/2017

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PictureThe inferior patrol path of the Aurelian Walls provided with loopholes for the archers
Erecting walls might seem an original idea, but in fact the Ancient Romans had already built them all around the Mediterranean area to keep their cities safe from the incursions of enemies. Although they were quite unable to keep 'the others' out, they were built with skillfulness and art, so they are now a beautiful and charming attraction of Rome. ​​​

The Aurelian Walls are the longest and best preserved Ancient Walls of Europe and out of the original 19 kilometers (12 miles) 12 kilometers are still intact (8 miles). They were built by the Emperor Aurelian and later reinforced by the Eastern Emperor Honorius to keep the Goths out. Honorius doubled the height of the walls which were 11 feet thick and 24 high, every thirty meters there was a watch tower with a ballista on it, 381 in total, 18 main gates flanked by smaller gates and 114 latrines. 

PictureGate St. Sebastian where the Museum of the Walls is located
The Museum of the walls, which is surprisingly free of charge, is located inside of the imposing Porta San Sebastiano, once called Porta Appia, facing the Appian Way, the most important consular road built by Appian Claudius the Blind in fourth century BC.
Later the gate took the name of a soldier which suffered martyrdom, St. Sebastian. The museum opened in 1990 even if already in 1940-43 underwent some major restorations to become the alcove of the fascist secretary Ettore Muti. The black and white mosaic on the first floor connecting the two towers dates back to his time. The view from the windows of the first level is already worth the climbing: on one side the Arch of Drusus, part of an Ancient Aqueduct (Aqua Antoniniana) which once fed the Caracalla's Baths, and the villas on the Appian Way on the other side. 

PictureView over the Regional Park of the Appian Way
Despite their solid appearance, they were not able to protect the city and most of the times the Barbarians entered through the opened gates showing the military inefficiency of the decaying Roman Empire.

In 1327 the gate became scene of struggles between the two parties supporting the Pope (Guelphs) and the king of Naples (Ghibellines) and when the Papal party won, the Archangel Michael defeating a dragoon was engraved in the inner part of the central gate.

From the first level, a small draft door will take you to the most fascinating part of the walls: the ancient covered walkway where the arches are lined in a unique geometric perfection.

In one of the watchtower you will find a fresco of a Madonna apparently  memory of a romitorio, the simple refuge of a hermit. The walls suffered collapses and damages for the erosion of elements, and some of the steps were restored with ancient recycled marbles. From the top of the walls, you can taste a fantastic view over the roman countryside part of the Regional Park of the Appian Way.

Tips: The bike is the best way to taste this part of Rome, especially on Sunday when the Appian Way is pedestrian. Always bring with you a U-lock to tide the bikes to a tree or a road sign while visiting sights during the way.
Bus number 118 is the buses which will take you here from the Colosseum.
The Museum of the Walls is opened every day except on Monday from 9 to 14. It is free of charge.
From here you can also visit the Catacombs on the Appian Way, the Caracalla's Baths, Villa of the Quintilii.

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If you need any further information, contact me through 
http://www.mylovelyrome.com

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Balbi Crypt: The Bright Side of The Dark Ages

4/7/2017

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Crypta Balbi, Ancient Theatre
The reconstructed half column once part of the columnade of Crypta Balbi
A step from where Julius Caesar was killed, in via delle Botteghe Oscure, there is the Balbi Crypt a site that has been deeply investigated by a group of passionate and talented archaeologists between 1980s and 1990s. 

Balbi Crypt was a colonnade connected to the smallest theater of Rome built by Lucius Cornelius Balbo in 13 B.C.
The theater now lies under the Mattei Palaces; the area of the Crypt instead was wisely purchased by the Italian State and revealed the rich and changing life of the city of Rome through a remarkable amount of marbles and artifacts from different centuries. 

​A big portion of the imposing perimetric wall of the Crypt is still standing, with its big travertine blocks and its half columns fallen after the earthquake 847 AD patiently recomposed piece by piece.

Under the IV century floor there are other levels to discover: the ancient foundation wall of the nearby Porticus Minucia, an office used in ancient times for the free distribution of wheat to the Romans. ​Still today Romans are questioned: 'Are you a Roman from Rome?'.
Few knows that this comes from the ancient right of the Romans born within the city walls of free distribution of wheat.
In the Middle Ages, leaning on the external wall of the Crypt, the few citizens survived to the barbarian invasions started to build huts, then as the level of life was improving, they were replaced by houses and palaces whose sewage system can be still seen. In the meanwhile the building which once connected the Crypt to the Porticus Minucia was decaying and a street called via delle Botteghe Oscure (the street of dark shops) took its place.

The most exciting part of the Crypt is the Exedra. Liberated from the above modern houses, the Exedra was known theoretically by the specialists through the Forma Urbis, a huge ancient marble map of Rome built at the time of Septimius Severus preserved only in few parts. One of this part is showing exactly this semicircular part of the crypt. 

The Exedra was transformed by Hadrian in a luxury public toilet which could comfortably house 40 people, then after the fall of the Roman Empire the area was filled by the 'Calcare', kilns to transform the ancient statues into cement for the new constructions. In this area, the archaeologists found 2 bodies buried in the ancient toilet system, as the population could not leave the city during sieges, and the remains of a donkey killed during an earthquake by the sudden falling of the roof.
Picture
Exedra of Crypta Balbi, the original 'latrina' built by Hadrian then transformed into a glass furnace
Picture
A fullonica behind the Exedra.
The Exedra was later connected with a monastery named Church of Santa Maria Domine Rosae and partly transformed into a praefurnium (oven) to heat the air and create a steam room to restore the tired pilgrims and the priests hosted in the monastery. The Balneum (private bath) is dating XI century but it is based on the bath system of the Ancient Romans.
​​The Church was later enlarged and transformed by the Jesuits in an Institution to save the 'Miserable Virgins' from prostitution. 

​Behind the Exedra, outside the crypt, a very well preserved ancient street divides some insulae (apartment blocks) transformed in the IV century into a domus (rich house) and after the fall of the Roman Empire, into a 
fullonica, a shop to dye color in the fabrics. The place did not have a good smell at the time, as to fix the colors they used urine.
On display in the above museum, there is an incredible amount of materials which prove the changes of this strategical point of Rome: pottery, jewelry, working instruments as well as amazing graphic reconstructions.

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​A less known site which helps to drag the Middle Ages out from the Darkness.
Picture
The street behind the Exedra and the Ancient House later transformed into a Fullonica.
Useful Tips: The entrance to this archaeological area is not so visible. It is a block away from the medieval tower of Papito in Largo Argentina, following the rails of the tram, in via delle Botteghe Oscure. 
The area is full of nice restaurants being so close to the Jewish ghetto and to the Pantheon.
Don't miss the map of the Balbi Crypt on the window facing via Caetani which gives you an idea of the position of ancient buildings in relation to the new ones. 
Along the via delle Botteghe Oscure you will also find two columns from the temple of the Nymphs which was once in the center of the Porticus Minucia. Also those columns had to be re-erected as they were found on the ground fallen during an earthquake hidden by the new constructions.
I would definitely recommend to visit this site on Saturday and Sunday when the most exciting part, the Exedra, is open to the public, at 10.45, 11.45, 12.45; 14.45, 15.45, 16.45. Always check the openings time as they can change.

If you need any further information, contact me through http://www.mylovelyrome.com
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Bus Number 118: Discovering the Appian Way

3/2/2017

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I love exploring Rome with buses and yes I admit it, it is strange to love public transportation in a city where the buses are on strike once a month (most of the times on Friday), but nobody is perfect and if you want to escape the city life and take a stroll in the greenery, explore the Appian Way with the bus number 118. Last time I did it in January and I was lucky because it was nice and warm but I would recommend spring or fall.

Take the bus near piazza Venezia, next to the theater of Marcellus, and get off just before Gate St. Sebastian, to visit the Museum of the Ancient Roman Walls. From the top of these ancient walls the view of the Roman countryside is a balm for the soul. From here there is the beginning of the Appian Way which runs in a Regional Park of 8400 acres where sometimes you can still meet shepherds with their herd.
Picture
View from the Roman Walls at Gate St. Sebastian
​Catch again the bus 118 and stop at the Catacombs of St. Sebastian, the oldest underground cemetery for Early Christians in Rome. Catacomb comes from Greek and it means close to the cavity, a dip created right here to extract a stone called tufa.
Take some time to visit the catacombs and the above baroque church with its relics, like the footprints of Jesus, the tomb of St. Sebastian, the amazing wooden ceiling and the bust of the Savior probably the last work by Bernini.
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​From this point, you will abandon the 118 bus route, and reach by foot the best preserved circus of Rome, the Circus of Maxentius with the nearby Tomb of Romulus. The Circus has still two corner towers and the central wall around which horses were running anti-clock. The tomb of Romulus, son of Maxentius who died prematurely, is attached to a modern building once a restaurant which used the tomb to refrigerate wine and food. ​Leaving Maxentius property, the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella, a I century BC rich tomb, will be your next stop. ​
The imposing and familiar view of the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella, has been portrayed by many foreign painters visiting Rome for centuries. This ancient tomb can be recognized by the battlements added during Middle Ages when it was transformed into the Caetani Castle.

​Time for a break in a small cafe which is also renting bicycles. Little birds singing and the sun on your face makes hard to leave this place but it is now time for the visit the baths of Capo di Bove a tiny archaeological site recently excavated and opened to the public for free. 
The guardians are extremely polite and are always happy to tell you the story of this private estate donated by a rich woman to Italy.

For the expert walkers, I would suggest to continue three kilometers up on the Appian Way to reach the new entrance of Villa Dei Quintili. Few knows about this new entrance and here the staff is lovely and helpful. 
Picture
The Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella, popular view in many paintings of the ancient travelers.
The Villa was built by two brothers in the II century AD, then passed in the Emperor's hands. The emperor enlarged the property so much that it is still imposing today with the remains of baths, colonnades, fountains, mosaics, etc..
Exit from the other side of the Villa dei Quintili, after exploring the tiny museum, cross the modern New Appian way and catch the bus 118 to go back to the city-center.
Picture
Villa di Quintili on the Appian Way. The Villa has two entrances one facing the Ancient Appian Way and the other facing the Modern New Appian Way. The two roads are running parallel.
Useful Tips: If you don't want to waste time waiting for the 118, download one of the many apps monitoring public buses. The bus is passing also in front of the Colosseum and Circus Maximus, which are both on the B Line route. At the beginning of the Appian way at number 42 you will find the office of the Regional Park to rent bicycles.
From the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella, if you don't want to reach the Villa dei Quintili by foot, go down on Via Cecilia Metella and catch the 118 on 
via Appia Pignatelli. The 118 after the Catacombs of St. Sebastian turns on Via Appia Pignatelli, the parallel street to the Ancient Appian Way. 
If you don't wish to visit the Villa dei Quintili, go back to the A line (Arco di Travertino) taking the bus 660 near the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella and Capo di Bove. It passes rarely so sit down and enjoy the sun. 
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The Museum of Aurelian Walls closes at 14; Capo di Bove closes at 16:00, Catacombs and Villa de Quintili around 17. Always check the opening times of sites because the timetables change in summer with longer openings.
The ticket of the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella is a bargain and allows the visit to other 2 sites: the Caracalla's Baths and the Villa Dei Quintili a little bit further up on the Appian Way.
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If you've saved some energies, you can reach the Park of the Aqueducts from the A line stops of Lucio Sestio, Publio Agricola or Subaugusta and enjoy the seven aqueducts which pass here. 

​If you need any further information, contact me through http://www.mylovelyrome.com
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A Day On The Appian Way: Villa Dei Quintili

2/28/2017

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Picture
View from the entrance towards the New Appian Way.
On the Appian Way, lies the large Villa dei Quintili built in the II century AD by two brothers that the emperor Commodus accused of conspiracy in order to get hold of their estate. Since then for centuries the villa remained imperial property. In Middle Ages the archaeological site was so large that the Romans considered it a separate town and called it the 'Roma Vecchia'.
Picture
The new ground recently purchased by the Italian State called 'Santa Maria Nova' finally allows the visitors in from the Appia Antica (Ancient Appian Way).
The Villa dei Quintili and the nearby ruins of the Roman Aqueducts are clearly visible to any traveler landing in Ciampino Airport and driving on the Appia Nuova (the New Appian Way) to reach the city center of Rome.

Since it was opened to the public the only access to the villa was from this modern road but the Italian State has recently purchased a new portion of terrain and it is finally possible to enter the Villa from the Ancient Appian Way, while strolling or biking on this peaceful road. The position in the heart of the regional park of the Appian Way makes this villa a little oasis just off the city walls.
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The villa has a stadium, well preserved baths, a large ninfeum (fountain), residential areas which well show the comfortable life of the emperors and their entourage.

Moreover there is a tiny high tech museum which preserves part of the archaeological funds of the Villa.

To fully appreciate the Appian Way, I would recommend to start from the Aurelian Walls with the visit of the Museum of the Ancient Walls, to end up at Villa dei Quintili. You will need a full day, to enjoy this part of Rome hiring a bicycle or by foot. ​
On the Appian Way, there are a lot of monuments which can be visited: the Circus of Maxentius, the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella, the oldest Christian Catacombs in Rome.
Picture
A Panoramic view of the Museum of villa dei Quintili, a small treasure case. You will find it on the Appia Nuova entrance.
Useful tips: you can reach the Appian way and Villa dei Quintili with the bus number 118 or 664. I would recommend bus 118 which has a long route but covers many sites, also passing in front of the Colosseum. Download one of the many free transport apps to control when buses are passing near your position.
Take a break for lunch at the small cafè near the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella or at the local restaurants (osteria) along the way. Along the Appian way there is also a Gladiators school in case you travel with children.
Villa dei Quintili can be visited with a ticket which only costs 6 euro and also includes the entry to the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella, the Caracalla's Baths for 7 days.
​

If you need any further information, contact me through http://www.mylovelyrome.com
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Castle St. Angel: Over the Roof of Rome

12/4/2016

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Picture
Castle St. Angel from Angel Bridge, Diego Albero Román through Flickr.com
At the end of a Vatican tour, if you find too challenging climbing the 553 steps of St. Peter's Dome, I would suggest reaching Castle St. Angel and enjoy the more accessible view of Rome from its top. 
Picture
The Pauline Hall in Castle St. Angel, by B.B. Wijdieks through Flickr.com
Castel Sant'Angelo was first built as a tomb by the Emperor Hadrian and slowly transformed into a fortress, where the Popes passed long periods during sieges.
Its name derives from the Angel Michael which appeared at the top of the Castle to annuounce the end of a terrible plaugue at the time of Pope Gregory the Great.

The imposing structure can be seen fully from the end of St. Angel Bridge decorated by the angels of Gianlorenzo Bernini and despite its stern appearence it hides beautiful treasures and fine decorated interiors.

It was also a jail where famous prisoners were detained: Giordano Bruno the dominican priest burnt for heresy in the middle of Campo de Fiori square; Beatrice Cenci, a noblewoman beheaded for the murder of her abusive and violent father; Benvenuto Cellini, the famous goldsmith which dared replacing with fakes, some of the precious stones of the papal tiara; Cagliostro, the famous alchemist, mason and healer passed here 16 months in a luxury prison now called Cagliostra. It was portrayed as a jail in the famous Dan Brown's best seller, Angels and Demons.
The Pauline Hall is the fanciest part of the castle with the nearby Papal Bedroom and Throne Chamber decorated with the mithological stories of Perseus and Love and Psyche and connected with the smallest and cutest spa in the world, the stufetta.

Along the walls of the hall built by Paul III, Perin del Vaga, a pupil of Raphael, painted the enterprises of Alexander the Great; odd animals and servants carrying fruits popping up from fake doors.
Picture
Detail of a monkey in the Pauline Hall
Today the castle is a National Museum belonging to the Italian State and it is used as a museum for ancient weapons and temporary art exhibitions. In summer the famous gallery connecting the castle to the Vatican Palaces, the Passetto, is opened to the public. 
Picture
Earthernware vases to keep the oil heated and thrown against enemies during attacks
Picture
A detail of the grotesque painted in the Cagliostra, the luxury jail of Giuseppe Balsamo Count of Cagliostro. Detained here for 16 month for heresy and wizardry.
Tips: The castle is a great place to visit also with children.
It is part of the Angels and Demons tour, following the plot of the famous book by Dan Brown.
In summer the dungeons and the Passetto are opened to the public and concerts are held in the castle at night.
The castle is a stone's throw from the Vatican and one of the few places opened until 7 even in winter.
There is a cafè and tables with a view at the top of the castle.
If you need any further information, contact me through http://www.mylovelyrome.com
Picture
View from the top of Castle St. Angel towards the Vatican, by queulat00 through Flickr.com
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Villa Farnesina: The Luxury Retreat of a Bank-man

11/23/2016

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Immagine
The wedding of Psiche and Love, by Raphael, in Villa Farnesina, credit Nicolas Vollmer, by Flickr.com
If you are searching for a beautiful museum to visit on Monday morning, when all the others are closed to the public, I would recommend Villa Farnesina.

The villa was built in 1506-1520 by Agostino Chigi a rich bank man from Siena which financed many popes. Being so close to the Papacy, he could choose the most important painter of its time, Raphael, to decorate his new residence, as he  was working in the Vatican Papal Apartments, the Raphael's Rooms.

The result were the stories of Love and Psyche and the amazing Galatea.

The choice of these mythological stories is not random but it depends on the biography of the commissioner, Agostino Chigi. 
Raphael, villa Farnesina
Galatea, by Raphael in Villa Farnesina, credit to mykaul through Flickr.com
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Loggia of Love and Psyche credit to Charlie Dave through Flickr.com
The 'Galatea' is an allegory of the aristocratic Margherita Gonzaga which didn't accept the advances of Agostino, which was not noble.
Therefore in Raphael's painting, Galatea, symbolizing Margherita, is escaping far from the ugly giant Polyphemus, painted by Sebastiano del Piombo, which depicts Agostino. Anyway the bank-man didn't lose too much time with the spoiled Margherita and found the love of his life in Venice.

In the main loggia overlooking the gardens, the paintings about 'Love and Psyche' are representing the love and wedding between the bank-man and a poor young Venetian lady, Francesca. 

Other famous masters worked in the villa, the Venetian Sebastiano del Piombo and the Sienese Baldassare Peruzzi which was also the architect of the villa, and painted a gorgeous ceiling representing the fortunate day of the birth of Agostino Chigi through astrological figures and Sodoma which decorated Agostino and Francesca's bedroom.
The Villa which at the beginning was named Chigi, was later purchased by the Farnese family and this is why it is still named 'Farnesina'.
Picture
Villa Chigi, called Farnesina, credit to Charlie Dave through Flickr.com
Tips: The villa stands in a beautiful district, Tastevere on the right bank of the Tiber river. This is a gourmet district where you can find many places to eat or have a gelato. 
In front of Villa Farnesina there is a baroque collection, Palazzo Corsini. Just behind Palazzo Corsini, you can find an oasis of peace and relax in the green, the Botanical gardens.
Consider that Villa Farnesina is opened from Monday to Sunday from 9 to 2 pm. It is usually closed on Sunday, except the second Sunday of the month when it is opened from 9 to 5 pm.

If you need any further information, contact me through http://www.mylovelyrome.com
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The Borghese Gallery: Pride and Nepotism

8/20/2016

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The Borghese Gallery in Rome, credit to Eric Martin through Flickr.com
We should thank the Papal visceral love for their family if we can enjoy so many art collections in Rome, as the Borghese Gallery. Nepotism, a word that every Roman knows well, used for the Popes which gave power and offices to their nephews, 'nepoti', lacking marriage and children, at least legitimate ones.

Unfortunately most visitors find out too late that the Borghese Gallery needs advance reservation and miss this marvelous treasure of Rome.
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The Rape of Proserpine by Gianlorenzo Bernini, credit to Larry Miller through Flickr.com
The Borghese Gallery lies at the edge of the peaceful and luxurious Borghese Park, in the heart of the posh Parioli district, close to the shopping area of the Spanish Steps and luxury hotels street via Veneto. This intimate collection was created by the Cardinal Scipione Borghese in XVII century which had a strong passion for art and a conspicuous fortune to cultivate it. What couldn't be purchased with money was grabbed with the power of his position. The Raphael's Deposition of Christ or Caravaggio's David with the head of Goliath were obtained thanking to the immense power derived from being the nephew of Pope Paul V.

The highlights of the gallery that I prefer are the sculptures of a young Gian Lorenzo Bernini, the Rape of Proserpine and the Apollo and Daphne, the serene beauty of Canova's Pauline Bonaparte, beloved sister of Napoleon, and the sublime perfection of ancient statues.


For those who will find their way to the second floor, the magnificent Profane and Sacred Love by Titian will be an oasis of elegance and peace from the drama of Baroque, but will tell you a more recent story about the decline of the Borghese family, while irreverent and distant pagan gods stare at the visitors from the ceilings.
Picture
Fauns of the ceiling of the Borghese Gallery, credit to luca skill through Flickr.com
Tips: You need to reserve and pay your Borghese Gallery tickets in advance. Tickets run out quickly. Check on their reservation web site: http://www.galleriaborghese.it/eng/galleriaBorghese.html
You can walk to the Broghese Gallery if you are close enough to via Veneto or you could take the bus 53 from piazza Barberini.
The admission time is every two hours: 9, 11, 13 15, 17.
Visit lasts 2 hours.
Enjoy a walk after the tour through the Borghese park, where you can rent a bike, a tandem or a rowboat.
In the same area, you can find other museums, such as the Gallery of Modern Art and the Etruscan Museum. If you are with children, next to the Gallery there is Rome Zoo.

If you need any further information, contact me through http://www.mylovelyrome.com
Picture
Rowboats on Villa Borghese Lake, credit to Fabio Stefano Alla through Flickr.com
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Palatine hill: the bearable lightness of being

6/2/2015

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Immagine
Fountain in the Domus Augustana, credit to Erik Hagreis through Flickr.com
Yesterday my clients, a lovely family of six, told me that on the first day in Rome, they wandered around the whole archaeological area for miles to find a high vantage point to take pictures. They didn't know that the best place to take pictures is the Palatine hill, and we covered it together the day after doing the Ancient Rome tour.

The Palatine is the most important of the seven hills of Rome, chosen by Romulus to found the city and later turned into the site of the Palaces of the Emperors.
The hill is accessible with the same ticket of the Colosseum, and, in my opinion, it is the most important of the 3 sites included: Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine.
That's because you can see the entire archaeological site from a high point, as well as the whole city.
Moreover it includes the visit of the Palatine Museum which gives an idea of the astonishing decorations which once adorned the palaces and shows the history of Rome from the foundation to the emperors.
The best preserved part of the palace will be the so called 'Stadium' which was really the personal chariot races track of the emperors, part of the Domus Augustana built by the Emperor Domitian, for his private quarters.
From the same palace, you'll have the chance to view from a high
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The Stadium or Ippodrome in the Domus Augustana on the Palatine hill, credit to Erik Hagreis, through Flickr.com
vantage point the Circus Maximus, the oldest and biggest circus for chariot races in Rome, and to visit the remains of the central palace is the Domus Flavia, still holding the ruins of the dining room and the throne hall of the Emperors.
On the other side of the hill, from the Domus Tiberiana built by the emperor Caligula and later transformed by the Pope Paul III Farnese into a botanic garden called 'Horti Farnesiani',
you will find the best view of all, over the city of Rome and the Roman Forum.

Tips:
If you come from the Colosseum, you will be able to access the Palatine hill from via di San Gregorio, just behind the Arch of Constantine or from the Arch of Titus.
In spring, I took my mum up on the Palatine, I brought some panini (sandwiches) and had a great picnic on the benches of the Horti Farnesiani. So you can do the same if you like. Don't get too complicated, don't bring too much staff, the guards might not appreciate your professional picnic style. Remember that you are in a
2000 years old archaeological area, in any case.
There is not a cafeteria on the Palatine hill or in the below Roman Forum, but you will be able to find public fountains (called by the Romans, big noses) if you are thirsty. The water is fresh, always running and safe.

If you are lucky as my tourists three days ago, you will meet black rabbits in the bushes of the Horti Farnesiani.

If you need any further information, contact me through http://www.mylovelyrome.com
Immagine
Panorama from the Palatine Hill, credit to Vašek Vinklát through Flickr.com
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Che Buono! My Favourite Roman Dishes

4/28/2015

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My clients sometimes ask me  suggestions about Roman dishes they can try.

First of all, when Romans feel very inspired can eat  antipasto (starter), primo (a first course of pasta), secondo (a second course of meat or fish), and a dessert but if you don't want to sink in your chair at the end of the meal, go for some starters and a first course OR a second course.

I know, I will disappoint someone, but consider that pasta with meatballs is NOT Italian and the Cioppino is Californian. So you won't find them in the menu.
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Carciofi alla giudia, credit to Roberta R. through Flickr.com
So here my fave Roman dishes. I would live eating the carciofi alla giudia (Jewish artichokes), deep fried and crispy. I know anything fried can be good, but the 'antipasto' (starter) is my favourite part of the meal: Fiori di zucca, fried zucchini flowers stuffed with anchovies and mozzarella, olive ascolane, fried olives stuffed with meat, mozzarelline fritte, fried mozzarella, misto fritto vegetale, fried slices of vegetables, baccalà fritto, fried cod, supplì, fried meat rice with mozzarella. Heaven!
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Gnocchi alla romana, credit to Roger Ferrer Ibáñez through Flickr.com
My fave pasta is gnocchi. They are handmade with smashed potatoes and they remind me of my nonna (grandmother). She used to add pieces of mozzarella so that when she put the hot gnocchi on the mozzarella, it started to melt creating a stringy effect.
My other cherished dish is cacio e pepe, pasta with goat cheese and pepper. It looks simple but it is not. Each chef has is own secret to cook a perfect cacio e pepe, so that the flavour is not too strong on the cheese or to aggressive on the pepper.
I also like the typical Carbonara a pasta with bacon and egg or the Gricia which is a carbonara without the egg.
My tastes in meat are similar to Americans: give me grilled meat and you will make me happy.
Consider though that that wouldn't be too Roman. Our tradition in meat derives from shepherds and so any real Roman, like my father in law, would eat lamb.

The toughest Romans love the offal or the less valuable parts of the cow, coda alla vaccinara which is the tail, or the trippa alla romana, the tripe.
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Saltimbocca alla romana, credit to cyclonebill through Flickr.com
Well I have to admit that I only recently converted to tripe, but it will pass some more time before I will have the courage to eat pajata (last part of the intestines)...
So my suggestion for meat? Saltimbocca alla romana, veal with ham and a leave of sage.
Tips: I can suggest you good places to eat in Rome. In any case, try the fried artichokes in the Jewish Ghetto.

Visit the blog of my talented friend Jo. She can teach you step by step all the secrets to cook a perfect Carbonara! Go on
https://frascaticookingthatsamore.wordpress.com/

If you need any further information, contact me through http://www.mylovelyrome.com
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Villa D'Este: Home Away From Rome

3/27/2015

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Neptune Fountain in Villa D'este, credit to Richard Mortel through Flickr.com
March and it is already spring here in Rome. Therefore people are willing to be in the greenery of parks and gardens. This reminds me about some of my loveliest clients Brian and Marina and their 3 kids which asked me to take them to a nice place outside of Rome. Here where I took them: Villa D'Este.
I think they considered this place one of the highlights of their trip to Italy and their kids loved it.

Villa D'Este was created by one of a kind man, the Cardinal Ippolito D'Este, son of that famous Lucretia Borgia daughter of the
naughty Spanish Pope Alexander VI Borgia. The cardinal tried to become pope for 5 times in his life, without success. In 1550 he became governor of Tivoli  a town just 45 miles from Rome and he moved into a convent connected with the church of St. Maria Maggiore. The new residence was inadequate to his high rank so he sent his architect Pirro Ligorio to study the place.
The result after 20 years was the Villa D'Este, a palace decorated by the best artists of that time: Livio Agresti, Cesare Nebbia and Girolamo Muziano and the astonishing Italian garden with 51 fountains, 398 gushes, 64 waterfalls.

To feed his fountains the cardinal created 3 branches from the aqueduct of the town, which uses the Aniene river water. An hydraulic machine of 500 litres of water per second which still works after centuries.
The most amazing fountains are the Fountain of the Organ which produced music thanking to a subterranean hydraulic system which was recently restored. The Fountain of Ovato with a waterfall under which I used to walk when I was a child.
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Ovato Fountain in Villa D'este, credit to Neo_II, through Flickr.com
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The 100 fountains in Villa D'este, credit to Riccardo Cuppini through Flickr.com
The one hundred fountains which show strange faces of animals. To end with the scenographical Fountain of Neptune the most photographed fountain of the villa, viewed from the great fishing ponds used once to provide the Cardinal with fresh fish.

The interior of the villa is also a paradise for the art lovers and the decorations and grotesque were painted to delight the eye of the visitor.
The masters involved in the frescoes are the same that can be admired in the Gallery of Maps in the Vatican Museums. Every inch of the interiors are decorated with grotesque and in every corner the family symbol of the cardinal, the lilies and the eagle, can be found as well as the symbol of the grandfather of the cardinal, the bull  Borgia.

Practical information: You need to be very determined to arrive to Tivoli with public transportation as the train doesn't run too often to here.
From the station you will need to walk a while to arrive to the villa.
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Interior decoration representing River Gods, in Villa D'este, credit to jnshaumeyer through Flickr.com
If you take the bus, like I did many times, you need to be patient because you will find a crowded fauna of commuters. The villa is worth this labour of Hercules though.

With the bus: Reach Ponte Mammolo with the B line of the subway. Here you find the beginning of the buses. They go via highway or via Tiburtina street. It is only known by God if you will find less traffic on one or the other way.
The 'hidden ticket area' to purchase your 'Cotral' bus ticket is below the bus station, just at the subway station, near the bar. Grab your return tickets and wait for the 'Caron' bus. Trying to find an available seat will be a challenge. I would recommend moving after 10.
I did it several times and I was alone, so I'm sure you can make it!
If you wish to visit Hadrian Villa, there are buses leaving from the gardens at the entrance of the city near piazza Garibaldi. If you have to make a choice I would always go for the Villa D'Este, but this is a very personal choice.

If you need any further information, contact me through http://www.visitrome.guide
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View from the top of the Neptune fountain towards the fishing ponds, Villa D'Este, credit to Neo_II through Flickr.com
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    Federica D'Orazio

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