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The Free and Easy Museum of the Walls

4/15/2017

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PictureThe inferior patrol path of the Aurelian Walls provided with loopholes for the archers
Erecting walls might seem an original idea, but in fact the Ancient Romans had already built them all around the Mediterranean area to keep their cities safe from the incursions of enemies. Although they were quite unable to keep 'the others' out, they were built with skillfulness and art, so they are now a beautiful and charming attraction of Rome. ​​​

The Aurelian Walls are the longest and best preserved Ancient Walls of Europe and out of the original 19 kilometers (12 miles) 12 kilometers are still intact (8 miles). They were built by the Emperor Aurelian and later reinforced by the Eastern Emperor Honorius to keep the Goths out. Honorius doubled the height of the walls which were 11 feet thick and 24 high, every thirty meters there was a watch tower with a ballista on it, 381 in total, 18 main gates flanked by smaller gates and 114 latrines. 

PictureGate St. Sebastian where the Museum of the Walls is located
The Museum of the walls, which is surprisingly free of charge, is located inside of the imposing Porta San Sebastiano, once called Porta Appia, facing the Appian Way, the most important consular road built by Appian Claudius the Blind in fourth century BC.
Later the gate took the name of a soldier which suffered martyrdom, St. Sebastian. The museum opened in 1990 even if already in 1940-43 underwent some major restorations to become the alcove of the fascist secretary Ettore Muti. The black and white mosaic on the first floor connecting the two towers dates back to his time. The view from the windows of the first level is already worth the climbing: on one side the Arch of Drusus, part of an Ancient Aqueduct (Aqua Antoniniana) which once fed the Caracalla's Baths, and the villas on the Appian Way on the other side. 

PictureView over the Regional Park of the Appian Way
Despite their solid appearance, they were not able to protect the city and most of the times the Barbarians entered through the opened gates showing the military inefficiency of the decaying Roman Empire.

In 1327 the gate became scene of struggles between the two parties supporting the Pope (Guelphs) and the king of Naples (Ghibellines) and when the Papal party won, the Archangel Michael defeating a dragoon was engraved in the inner part of the central gate.

From the first level, a small draft door will take you to the most fascinating part of the walls: the ancient covered walkway where the arches are lined in a unique geometric perfection.

In one of the watchtower you will find a fresco of a Madonna apparently  memory of a romitorio, the simple refuge of a hermit. The walls suffered collapses and damages for the erosion of elements, and some of the steps were restored with ancient recycled marbles. From the top of the walls, you can taste a fantastic view over the roman countryside part of the Regional Park of the Appian Way.

Tips: The bike is the best way to taste this part of Rome, especially on Sunday when the Appian Way is pedestrian. Always bring with you a U-lock to tide the bikes to a tree or a road sign while visiting sights during the way.
Bus number 118 is the buses which will take you here from the Colosseum.
The Museum of the Walls is opened every day except on Monday from 9 to 14. It is free of charge.
From here you can also visit the Catacombs on the Appian Way, the Caracalla's Baths, Villa of the Quintilii.

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If you need any further information, contact me through 
http://www.mylovelyrome.com

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    Federica D'Orazio

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    Federica D'Orazio

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